10 books for those who love cooking and eating – Observer

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Little did I know about cooking — not even how to fry an egg — but things changed in the life of Bertha Rosa-Limpo, a lyrical singer from the high bourgeoisie who ended up changing the culinary habits of the Portuguese. After a cosmetics brand, Thaber, Bertha ended up launching later, after gathering a good number of recipes, the mythical “O Livro de Pantagruel”, considered one of the Portuguese gastronomic bibles. Now, Nuno Alves Caetano, grandson of the author who has also had his hand in the reissues of that classic, launches “As Doces Recipes da Minha Avó Bertha Rosa-Limpo”, a sweets book with 170 recipes selected by his grandmother. This recipe was to be included in “O Livro de Pantagruel” — which is in its 80th edition with three thousand recipes — but which never made it into. This book contains recipes for Amores de Azeitão, Dona Maria tea cookies, a Duchess cake, a chocolate charlotte or some Bertha Rosa-Limpo-style custard tarts.

On sale November 16th.

It was six years ago that the well-known gastronome Virgílio Nogueiro Gomes began his search and research that would result, this year, in “À Portuguesa: recipes in foreign books up to 1900”, a book with 118 recipes, both sweet and savory, found by the author in foreign cookbooks between 1604 and 1900. “My main concern was not only translating and identifying the recipes, it was also looking for historical reasons or Portuguese movement in those territories that could have influenced their existence there”, said Virgílio Gomes to Radio Observer. There were more than a hundred books that he had to buy to get to his compilation – the most expensive cost him 394 euros – which starts with a recipe from 1604 published in a book by the chef of the prince-bishops of Liége. Many of the recipes shown there cannot be cooked because, says the author, “many of the dishes do not have quantities”, but the main objective was to understand what, after all, the expression “Portuguese style” meant when used in foreign books.


Two chefs and a nutritionist walk into a bar and what happens? In this case, a book of traditional and healthy recipes, because the authors believe that the traditional recipe can be looked at with the scientific knowledge of nutrition in order to give the dishes a greater nutritional value. The condition of the chefs Catarina Correia, who works at Casa de Chá da Boa Nova, and Rui Paula was one: not to question the identity of the recipes. On the nutrition side, João Rodrigues wanted to improve the nutritional composition per serving, both from the caloric point of view and in relation to the content of the different nutrients. In this book, there is room for sausages, fried foods and desserts, but with consideration, weight and measure. And flavor, that’s all.

On sale for 16.90 euros

Do you know the difference between brown shell eggs and white shell eggs? And why are there more orange yolks and others paler? These are questions that have certainly crossed your mind but that you push forward and end up never being answered. Madalena Lordelo, a professor at the Instituto Superior de Agronomia at the University of Lisbon, wanted precisely to put an end to many of the myths about eggs and the hens that lay them, also going through various industry issues, all to combat misinformation about quality and production. of eggs. Madalena even clarifies that organic eggs may not be of higher quality than aviary ones, and more: if the egg floats does not necessarily mean that it is spoiled, it is worth noting. The author divides the book into several thematic chapters, all associated with proverbs about eggs.

“This book is about the story of our life. It may look like a cookbook, but it’s not. It’s the story of our relationship”, they start by writing on their blog the elements of Casal Mistério, the commensal couple that lives up to their name and remains anonymous.”It could have been love at first sight, but it was gluttony at first sight” . In these more than 250 pages, they gathered the 101 recipes that marked their lives and that everyone should try, an illustrated book with images by food photographer Maria Midões. Truffle pasta, Beef Wellington or Heston Blumenthal’s chocolate mousse are some of the suggested recipes.

A single conversation formed the basis of this posthumous guide by mythical chef Anthony Bourdain, co-signed with his assistant of more than a decade, Laurie Woolever. After he died, Bourdain’s legacy, for that idea he had in times of releasing a book, was just an hour of audio with the ideas that the American chef and presenter had outlined for what would be another of his works. . A work that was built by Laurie who ended up compiling a travel guide through 43 countries in dozens of pages, the result of a lot of research in the chef’s vast television archive, in the notes of his endless travels and with the help of testimonies from those who were close to him. . The book has a scale in Portugal — resulting from his four visits to the country — which had six pages: first with the contextualization of the chef’s affinity with the country and then with pages between suggestions for Lisbon and others for Porto. The guide includes must-eat suggestions and some tips on how to get there or where to stay, depending on the city.

There is no name that generates more consensus in Portuguese cuisine than that of Maria de Lourdes Modesto. At the age of 91, the teacher, gastronome and diva of traditional Portuguese gastronomy, as she is known, left another book among her extensive legacy, a collection of knowledge, flavors, secrets and recipes — “Coisas Que Eu Sei”. In this recent work, Maria de Lourdes Modesto returns to what she does best: reflecting on the heritage of traditional Portuguese cuisine, paying tribute to it once again. This time, she looked far back—to the flavors of childhood that marked her around the table. She goes through a set of recipes with a history such as crepes Suzette or the sands of Cascais, and recipes that are unavoidable in Portuguese recipes such as rice pudding, flan pudding or marmalade. The gastronome returns to the base, which is to say, to some of the pillars of food, focusing on recipes and on such “knowledge” about soup, which she considers to be the triumph of virtues, or even salads, the so-called idolized bread, seafood, oranges that are synonymous with Portugal in the world, tomatoes, honey, yogurt, chestnuts and figs, courgettes and even ginger. Everything is scrutinized by the kitchen veteran, who admits she is not “the Aljubarrota baker of traditional cuisine, inflexible to any change”.

Or “How I Learned to Stop Worrying About Recipes (And Love My Microwave)” — basically, that’s how the Momofuku restaurant mind works. And the idea came even before the pandemic crisis hit the door, when the chef approached the gastronomic journalist Priya Krishna to write a book without recipes, that is, ways to cook at home in an improvised way and with a series of culinary tricks. and that, in a way, ends up depending a lot on the microwave. “Cooking at Home” is a kind of instruction manual on how to improvise in the kitchen, and includes essays, interviews with food scientists and guidance on how to take basic ingredients like rice, chicken, rice or frozen vegetables and prepare them in a simple way. and tasty. Both authors talk about their mothers, as sources of inspiration, it is a book about how to “think like a cook…who learned to stop thinking like a cook”.

This is her most personal book so far, and Chrissy says it, as she confesses that it was in writing and in the kitchen that she took refuge when she lost her third child, baby Jack. In this new “Cravings”, Teigen shares recipes that bring “joy and comfort”, with the aim of being able to be made at home with the family. Chrissy shares the recipes that supported her and her family, the ones that made her feel like everything was going to be okay, such as classic red lentil soup, French toast stuffed with peanut butter and jelly, Wellington puff pastry toast or buttermilk pancakes.

There are more than 120 recipes made with just 18 ingredients in total, the favorites of British chef Jamie Oliver, whose latest book is now available in Portuguese bookstores with an easy and tasty recipe, to be made at home by everyone. Broccoli, chicken breast, potato, eggs, eggplant, mushrooms, shrimp or avocado are some of these ingredients chosen by the chef, whose choices resulted from a survey by Jamie Oliver about the ingredients that people buy the most in the supermarket. Some of them end up being wasted and the chef wants to help combat this. The book presents solutions for common kitchen buzzwords — such as “I don’t have time” — and presents simple recipes, with short preparation times and few steps.

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