More and more I fall in love with initiatives that go beyond offering food on the plate. I’ve been looking for more diverse and thought-provoking experiences than smoothies, recipes copied over and over. I’m after purpose, much more than a smug and artificial environment, all sorts of ostentation. Gastronomy has changed its focus and those who have not yet paid attention to the return to origins, the simplicity of regional ingredients and that unpretentious, good price and plenty of flavor food, are bound to attract a smaller and smaller clientele.
The new directions of gastronomy take us to places like Chapada dos Veadeiros, where the diversity of the Cerrado is protected by communities like the quilombolas of Vai das Almas. This new look proposes us to know the unconventional edible plants (PANCS), which can be found even on the side of your building or home. The small producers’ fair is back in our daily lives, while the markets that gather what humble families produce to survive, valuing this work so that it doesn’t die.
This week, I had the privilege of visiting the Organic Products Center Directly from the Producer (CEPODI), installed in one of the houses on 707 Norte, opposite the local shops. The place is a find for those who, like me, believe in the social role of gastronomy.
The fruits, vegetables and foliage are delivered there by producers from different locations in the Federal District, from Brazlândia to Sobradinho, and also from Goiás. Products such as flour, coffee, cachaça, beers, jellies, sauces and a number of other inputs also fill the shelves. The richness of the Cerrado is there for those who want to taste its exciting flavors. I’m even going back to buy the kalunga vanilla, which was out of stock.
on the balcony
As soon as we enter the house, we come across a nice little balcony, where the Coité Culinária Panc is installed, which does not have a fixed menu, but uses the best ingredients available on the day to offer organic, vegan and often gluten-free dishes. Chef Carolina Bernardes is in charge of the production, along with Larissa Carvalho and Bruno Galvão. “Our idea is to work with an inclusive kitchen, where everyone can eat. And the challenge is greater than creating with the items available, because we also try to use what is almost being lost”, say the entrepreneurs who also run a restaurant, also vegan, at 407 Norte.
I must confess that my carnivore side still has some reservations about preparations that are called “without animal protein”, because it is really difficult to find tasty recipes out there. Even so, I do not fail to taste anything, after all, what good is a food critic who refuses to eat a food, no matter how different it is?
That’s why I couldn’t help but venture into Carolina’s cafe. And you know what? I was very pleased to learn that the term PANC is not only in the name of the place, but also in most of the items available at the time.
I tried the corn pie with mushrooms (R$15); the version of quiche with rice and sesame dough, stuffed with okra, ora-pro-nóbis and tomato; and another stuffed with corn and vinegar (R$ 15 each).
On the sweet side, I really liked the pie with creamy apple and arrowroot filling (R$ 15), the corn cake with guava (R$ 12) and the pumpkin jam (R$ 7, the cup). But the dishes that really surprised me were the brownie with bean paste, Amma cocoa and licuri (R$12) and the avocado mousse with cocoa (R$10).
To drink, the chef prepares juices with the available fruits. I tried the avocado with lemon cloves and the tangerine with ginger and brown sugar, whose pitchers cost R$12. Great, but they can be colder. Oh, and there’s brewed coffee to wake you up.
CEPOD I- Organic Products Center Direct from the Producer
Address: SHCGN 707, Bloco B, Casa 44 (uphill to Uniceub)
Phone: (61) 99835-3281
Open from Monday to Friday, from 8 am to 7 pm; Saturday from 8 am to 1 pm
PANC Culinary Coite
Phone: (61) 99807-9810
Open from Monday to Friday, from 9 am to 7 pm
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