Family brings flavor of the northeast with couscous, top hat and lace tapioca – Sabor

Through the regional dishes, it is possible to get to know the Northeastern culture and the unique spice of the hinterland

Couscous is the main star of the Northeastern menu. (Photo: Paul Francis)

In Bairro Aero Rancho, the yellow house of the Beltrão family manages to bring the flavor of the northeast through simple couscous stuffed with onions and cream cheese. The business started in February, but has enchanted the parish with the characteristic flavor and charm of the environment that preserves the history of the family members.

At Cuscuz Pé de Serra, traditional dishes are prepared by Ana Beltrão, 66, and Ana Carolina, 17. Grandmother and granddaughter make with great affection the meals that are the essence of the sertão. On the menu, the flagship is couscous soaked in coconut milk, made with bottled butter and stuffed with meat and curd.

To enhance the originality of the dishes, Ana Beltrão explains the secret of the special touch. “The difference in our food, which is really country style, is the sun-dried meat and bottled butter. That’s what gives the flavor”, she emphasizes.

Born in Rio Grande do Norte, she worked for years in the kitchen and only stood still during the pandemic. Unaccustomed to life away from spices and the stove, Ana missed her job and that’s when the family decided to open their own business. Who tells this part of the story is her daughter, Graziella Beltrão, 43 years old. “She had nowhere to work and she was bad at it, because she is a very active person. My brother (Gustavo) and I turned her house into a space and the whole family worked here,” she explains.

Decoration values ​​the Northeastern culture and the unique elements of the region.  (Photo: Paul Francis)
Decoration values ​​the Northeastern culture and the unique elements of the region. (Photo: Paul Francis)

With great care, they decorated the entire establishment with objects and instruments from the Northeastern culture. In a corner of the space, the public can find the couscous collection, the wooden pestle, the great-grandmother’s sewing machine, the frevo umbrella, cactus, in addition to the loveseat and cangaceiro hats. On the balcony, the family made drawings on the wall that refer to the historic doors of the city of Recife.

With wooden tables decorated with colorful tablecloths, meals are served on enameled plates, popularly known as agate crockery. On the menu, the main meals are: baião de dois (with string beans, coalho cheese, sun dried meat and rice), ardadinho (with milk rice, sun dried meat, corada beans and vinaigrette) and milk rice with scrambled egg, corned beef and fried egg.

Another highlight of the menu is the lace tapioca with curd cheese, coalho cheese, chicken with bacon, pepperoni with bacon, fresh coconut with cheese and, of course, the tapioca with sun-dried onion and curd cheese. For those who can’t do without portions, the house serves cassava with jerked beef, potato with jerked beef and tapioca dices accompanied by sugar mill honey and pepper jelly.

Lace tapioca with sun meat and cream cheese.  (Photo: Paul Francis)
Lace tapioca with sun meat and cream cheese. (Photo: Paul Francis)

Another typical dish that has a guaranteed place in the house and serves as a dessert is the top hat. It is made with bananas fried in bottled butter, mozzarella cheese, sugar and cinnamon. In addition to this sweet option, customers can try the curd cheese fried in bottled butter with cane molasses and the famous roll cake.

Despite the business being recent, the family is happy with the result and the presence of residents from different regions of the city. Ana comments that she is also excited to have returned to cooking Northeastern meals. “I’m very happy, because I was unemployed, I thought I was going to get depressed, but my son helped me”, she says.

As everything in the place has an explanation behind it, Gustavo Beltrão, 38, reports some characteristics of the place. “Here it’s called Pé de Serra because of the city where my mother was born, which is Patu, and there’s Serra do Lima. We invested a lot in the decoration so that we could call the staff. Then they come and eat, but they come back for the food,” he says.

Cartola is served with banana, mozzarella cheese, sugar and cinnamon.  (Photo: Paul Francis)
Cartola is served with banana, mozzarella cheese, sugar and cinnamon. (Photo: Paul Francis)

The photo, which shows the beauty of Dona Ana’s homeland, has a special corner on the wall of the establishment. Another image that has a place of honor in the establishment is the drawing of Ana’s husband, who passed away more than 20 years ago.

Drawn in a hammock, Pedro Antônio was portrayed sleeping next to his faithful companion in life, the dog Jamanta. For these and other particularities, Graziella comments on the importance of every detail of the space. “Every little thing here has a piece of our history”, she concludes.

If you want to discover Couscous Pé de Serra, the establishment is located at Rua Jornalista Valdir Lago, 1004, Bairro Aero Rancho. Opening hours are from Tuesday to Thursday, from 18:00 to 23:00. Friday, Saturday and Sunday, from 18:00 to 00:00.

Establishment is managed by the Beltrão family.  (Photo: Paul Francis)
Establishment is managed by the Beltrão family. (Photo: Paul Francis)

follow the side B on Instagram @ladobcgoficial, Facebook and twitter. Do you have a guide to suggest? Send it on social media or Direct das Ruas via WhatsApp (67) 99669-9563 (call here).

Leave a Comment